Lauder launches new fragrance pillar: Modern Muse

By Charlotte Turner |

For its most daring fragrance launch inside the last ten years, Estée Lauder Companies’ took its inspiration from the modern woman and her ‘intriguing duality’.

 

The concept for ELC’s new fragrance pillar, Modern Muse – which the Business understands has been in the pipeline for a few years – was both inspired by iconic female business woman, Estée Lauder, as well all the qualities of ‘today’s modern woman’.

 

“Our founder, Estée Lauder was an amazing muse, inspiring women of all ages with her dynamic personality, creativity and brilliant, connective storytelling,” says Karyn Khoury, Senior Vice President, Corporate Fragrance Development Worldwide.

 

Modern Muse was heavily influenced by the launch of Youth Dew in 1953; one of the first fragrances that women were meant to buy for themselves and wear everyday, a new concept at the time.

 

FULL PERFUMERY PALETTE

Harry Fremont, one of less than 10 master perfumers in the world, worked on the fragrance in collaboration with Khoury. “What was special about the development of Modern Muse was the unique opportunity to use the perfumery palette to its full potential,” said Fremont.

 

Modern Muse has updated the ‘radical’ fragrance of the fifties by embracing a new era in perfumery. As was explained by Khoury at a launch for the fragrance in London in May, the scent does not have a top, middle and base note structure, but can be described as a lush, floral and woody fragrance; a seemingly contradictory blend.

 

“What makes Modern Muse very different from other fragrances on the market is its unique ‘dual-impression’ construction…The creative energy and magnetic femininity of today’s Modern Muse is captured by a blend of extractions of Jasmine Sambac and dewy citrus fruits to bring a multi-faceted, sparkling floral signature,” says Khoury.

 

“Her sleek style, strength and sensuality are expressed by a unique blend of Patchouli essences wrapped in the creaminess of Amberwood, Vanilla and Musk, which reveals a sexy, second-skin effect.”

 

NEW INGREDIENTS

The scent also contains new ingredients. “Jasmine Sambac China Absolute is new to the perfumery palette,” adds Khoury. Historically, Jasmine Sambac hails from India, however China Absolute has a more ‘complex floralcy’, which makes for a better imitation of the natural scent of a flower.

 

[LtoR: Harry Fremont, Master Perfumer; Karyn Khoury Senior Vice President, Corporate Fragrance Development Worldwide]

 

The Business asked Khoury if this modern and complex concept will resonate with the global traveller when the fragrance hits travel retail counters in October. “From our testing, it seems to appeal to all regions, which is really quite remarkable.”

 

Modern Muse sees Lauder returning to fragrance ‘in a big way’. “It’s been about 10 years since we’ve seen this much support for a fragrance launch,” says Khoury. “This scent is not about dictation, but about a dialogue. The first questions from our BAs will be ‘what can you smell in this fragrance?’”

 

Consumers can begin interpreting the scent for themselves when Modern Muse hits travel retail counters in October in what will be a phased roll out, globally.

 

Read the full length article in the June issue of the Travel Retail Business magazine.

 

 


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